T he most adventurous food today is often fused together from divergent cultures and cuisines to create new flavor combinations that both honor and challenge tradition. The head chef at Blue Lake Casino and Hotel’s Sushi Blue presents a fusion of the Ring of Fire, appearing on his avant-garde, playful, and decadent menu. Jacob Talbert’s sushi and izakaya-style shareables follow the map of places he’s lived and visited around the greater Pacific, from Hawaii, to California’s wine country, Tahoe, Japan, and right back here to Humboldt County.
Originally from Virginia, Chef Talbert is a veteran sushi chef of 24 years who’s worked his way from the South Pacific to the high north of California’s redwood coast, with bits of each place reflected in his creations. In addition to Northern California’s local albacore, salmon, and Dungeness, he sources as much sustainable line-caught fish as possible from Hawaii, the place where he did his training. He learned the traditional art of making sushi rice from a third-generation sushi master, and contrasted with this sacred tradition are modern fusions of California cuisine with touches of Latin flare (sweety drop peppers from Peru, anyone?) and playful interpretations that set his sushi apart. Before moving to Humboldt, his sushi restaurant, Rocket Sushi in Sonoma, was where he experimented with California’s Mediterranean flavors, flavors which he brought to Sushi Blue in his famous Caprese Roll – a snow crab and ahi roll topped with refreshing tomato, basil, crispy garlic, citrus aioli, and a creamy, tangy drizzle of goat cheese.
And goat cheese on a sushi roll just scratches the surface of Chef Talbert’s creativity. Enter the Japanese buffalo wing: Talbert’s interpretation is an insane concoction like nothing you can imagine – it’s shrimp, wrapped in scallops, tempuraed in the shape of a wing, and slathered with sweet and spicy sauce and miso vinaigrette. It’s scrumptious, the most luxurious wing in existence, having appeared to chef in a dream surely sent down from the heavens. It’s this kind of fun you find on his menu, a leveling-up of something simple, like adding lobster to miso soup, or his sushi tostadas – tempura nori with Japanese ceviche on top. Other small plates in the izakaya style (think Japanese gastropub meets tapas) include sushi bonbons – three perfect bites of sweet snow crab wrapped in avocado and tuna – which, by the way, is my favorite shareable to share only with myself (keep your hands off my bonbons).
Honoring tradition is still at the heart of Sushi Blue’s purpose; rounding out his experimental fusion style are plans to introduce more traditional fare like the ramen chef studied when the casino sent him to Japan for immersive training in noodle and broth-making. Chef Talbert’s affinity for omakase is another Japanese custom honoring the relationship between trusted chef and patron – the phrase translates to mean “I’ll leave it up to you.” There’s nothing quite like sitting at a sushi bar and giving up control over your meal, leaving it up to chef’s current mood and special ingredients to sate your openness and curiosity with a unique and often off-menu experience.
Sushi Blue is set to expand into a larger space at the opposite end of the casino in early 2023, but this author recommends experiencing the cozy space it currently inhabits; the muted lighting, being up close and personal with the chefs, and being far enough away for comfort but close enough to visually dine on your neighbor’s plates make for a sensual experience. Come to Sushi Blue in our little corner of California and leave with tastes of the great and wide Pacific.
